All alone in Antigua - almost

We've been anchored in Davis Bay, off Long Island, Antigua for a week and other than service boats coming into the Jumby Bay Resort and a few day boats cruising through the Bay have not had any other boats anchor here. This morning another boat came in and anchored beside us - of all things it is an Island Packet!

The image to the right is the shore side view of our anchorage!

We are running the water maker this morning and Lesley has been busy making hummus for our Middle Eastern Feast this evening.

We've been watching the weather pretty closely and think we will probably sail back to Guadeloupe on Thursday as the long term forecast looks pretty blustery with larger seas than we prefer to travel in for at least the next several weeks afterward.

Falmouth Area on an ATV

We spent this past Sunday exploring the area around
Falmouth, Antigua on a 4 wheel All Terrain Vehicle that we rented. The first stop was to go up to Shirley Heights and make sure that we had the correct info on the Sunday Party. We then explored the various ruins of the old English Fort "Shirley". We came back up later in the day for the Sunday BBQ which was really good. They also had a steel band playing but we were too close so the music was over powering.

English Harbor (Foreground) and Falmouth Harbor

Giant Asparagus!

Old windmill that was used to process sugar cane.

Mega Yacht Looses Mast

I was ashore today getting some work done on the
dinghy. When I returned to the boat Lesley mentioned that she had seen a large yacht come in with a broken mast. We grabbed the camera and headed over to the Antigua Yacht Club Marina and checked it out - what a mess.






http://www.charterworld.com/index.html?sub=yacht-charter&charter=sysalperton-6118

The Vessel is Salperton IV and when we stopped
by to look at the boat the crew were casually washing the hull as if nothing had happened. Given the height of the rig and the sails she was carrying, imagine that this was a very "explosive" event to say
the least.

Guadeloupe to Antigua

We left Deshaies, Guadeloupe this morning at 0600 headed for Antigua. Forecast conditions were winds 18g21kts and seas of 2.2 meters. We set full jib and main and intended to cruise right on over here - along the way the winds started gusting to 24kts and the seas were running about 3 meters. Reefed the main and came right on over anyway. Lumpy and bumpy but the new head sail (110 Yankee cut) is a major improvement on this boat.

Just before we arrived at the entrance to Falmouth Harbor we noticed a black inflatable with some legs hanging over one side - furled the jib and headed over to investigate just in case. Turned out to be two people drift fishing (sleepin?, shaggin?, whatin?). We asked them if they were OK and they gave us the high sign and we headed on in.

Just as we started up toward big boat marina we noticed the Maltese Falcon tied up. Took a couple of photos and will get one of the stern in the morning then upload - a really awesome boat.

The 289 foot (88m) Maltese Falcon is the largest private sailboat in the world. The yacht originally owned by Tom Perkins (American Venture Capitalist and formerly of HP) was recently sold to Elena Ambrosiadou for $120 million US dollars. Perkins did have the boat on the market for $165 million so she got it for a steal. Ambrosiadou is better known for setting up one of the most successful hedge funds in the world, and was Britain’s highest paid female executive before
moving her company to Cyprus in 2006.

Deshaies, Guadeloupe

We moved up from The Saintes yesterday and had a great sail across the channel to Guadeloupe. Once we were across the channel though, as usual the wind died/became very shifty, so we ended up motor sailing the rest of the way up the coast. We took the opportunity to run the watermaker and made about 35 gallons of water.

We arrived at Deshaies and anchored up close to town in about 12 feet of water with a light rain falling. Wiped the boat down good to clean off accumulated salt and then went into town to take care of Customs and pick up a few grocery items. We had to kill about an hour waiting for the shops to open after the daily after lunch shutdown so we stopped and had a drink and then wandered around town for a little while. Went into the local Customs Office (a small shop that sells local crafts, provides copies and internet service, etc) and managed to clear in and out at the same time.

Had a great dinner, watched an episode of season 5 of the Sopranos, and had a great nights sleep.

Took care of a few errands on the boat this morning and Lesley is making chicken curry for dinner then we plan to go ashore to the local vegetable market and also pick up a rotisserie chicken that we will have for dinner after our arrival in Antigua on Saturday.

Had a wonderful Green Flash again this evening - didn't think it was going to happen because of clouds in the area and a few boats anchored behind us but we got really lucky! We got up on deck about 5 minutes before sundown and the sun dropped to the horizon under an bank of clouds. As the suns orb touched the horizon we noticed some sort of blob - turned out to be one of the square rigger cruise ships that we often see out here. We thought that the ship would obstruct the view - we were really wrong - beautiful green flash around the boat that was probably 10 - 20 miles west of us. A really unusual Green Flash.

Rough night! The Saintes

We spent a very uncomfortable night (Wednesday) off Bourg Des Saintes, Terre D'ed Haut due to unusual wave action wrapping in from the sea. We were anchored in our normal spot but the swells rolling in were just to much - we are so glad that at least we have a berth in the aft cabin that lets us sleep in a different position (athwartships). The older boats do not have this option. Even after moving to the aft cabin I don't think we got more than 4 or 5 hours of sleep and that was not the best sleep we've ever had.

With weather improving for our planned crossing to Antigua this coming weekend we decided to pick up anchor and move to Deshaies, Guadeloupe.

BLT

We decided to take a long hike yesterday on the road leading out of Portsmouth up the road that leads to the cold soufriere (cold volcano vent). We walked for about 3 miles and stopped for lunch at the Heaven's Best Guesthouse and Restaurant for lunch. We both decided on BLT's and a shandy. The sandwich was just a bit different - Bacon, Lobster, and Tomato - but really good.

The owners wife, Evelyn, a native of St Maarten and later upstate New York came over and we talked at length about the Island of Dominica. After lunch we walked back to Portsmouth but as we got within about 1/2 mile of town a blue car stopped and asked us if we wanted a ride (we did). It was Evelyn and she gave us a ride back to the dingy dock.

We came back to the boat and picked up the diesel jug and then made two trips to the shore side Texaco Station for diesel fuel. We are now fueled and ready to move on to Guadeloupe.

At dusk yesterday we were treated to yet another nice Green Flash. There was a large bank of clouds on the western horizon just before sundown so we did not think that the sunset would be any good turned out that there was a small clear area between the cloud bank and horizon - even the lower edge of the clouds took on a green hue for a brief moment.

Martin (Tour Guide) stopped by the boat later in the evening and said goodbye - we are booked during our return visit to take a nice hike to an area that has a twin waterfall - should be fun.

Prince Rupert Bay, Dominica

We arrived here about 2PM yesterday and anchored near our preferred spot in the NE corner of the Bay off the Purple Turtle, where we usually have good WiFi Service (HotHotHotSpot). However it appears that there was some sort of connectivity issue off island last night so we could not reliably connect to anything.

Martin stopped by with a bunch of fruit and came aboard for a nice visit - we drank a few beers and talked about the island and things since our visit last season. We have a hike planned to a secret spot on our return in a month or so after we turn South.

The Portsmouth Area Yacht Security (anchorage security patrol group) normally has a beach BBQ on Sundays but due to the smaller number of boats here there was not one yesterday. Martin did point out a new cabana on shore that PAYS is building on land given by the Dominican Government. The new cabana will be home to future PAYS BBQ's when completed.

There are only 18 or 19 boats in the Bay now which seems to be quite a bit fewer than this time last year.

The music from Big Poppas was to loud again last night but think they must have stopped by midnight or so.

We had planned to take a long walk ashore today and try a new place for lunch but it is rainy and overcast this morning so may just stay aboard and play cards!

Green Flash

We've seen really great Green Flashes two days in a row now. First was on Saturday at Sundown while we were moored off the Anchorage Hotel near Roseau and then yesterday while anchored in Prince Rupert Bay, Dominica.

Saturdays flash was fairly long perhaps more than a second or so with a very nice wink at the end. Yesterdays flash was looking very iffy as there was a wisp of clouds just above the horizon that I thought would block the sunset - instead we got the green flash and the clouds appeared
to have turned green at the time the flash occurred.

Photo from the Internet

Martinique to Dominica

We left Ste Pierre, Martinique this morning at 0610 headed for Roseau, Dominica. Breakfast was homemade cinnamon rolls and coffee while we were underway. There were several boats leaving just after we did and we only had two pass us. One was a big catamaran and another what looked like a 40' Caliber. Conditions were great with wind and waves from the East - wind 18 gusting to 23 knots and seas at probably no higher than 8'. We had all sails out and were making 6.5 - 7.5 knots with the autopilot steering the boat. There were several other boats - another Caliber, a Hunter, and a Catalina 470 in behind us and we heard them talking to each other about the conditions - complaining about the wind speed, inability of their autopilots to handle the boat/conditions, etc. We have been in other anchorages with these boats and have spoken to the owners casually. Appears that there is a group of 5 or 6 boats that are traveling together.

Arrived in Roseau and took a mooring off of the Anchorage Hotel from Pancho. We had called Sea Cat earlier and he told us to call him when we got close and he would have someone help with the mooring. As we approached the Anchorage Hotel Pancho came out and asked if we wanted a mooring - told him that we were taking one from Sea Cat but he indicated that Sea Cats moorings were all taken. At about the same time a boat left one of Sea Cats moorings but Lesley thought the one that Pancho offered would be cooler - it is. About 10 minutes later Sea Cat came out and asked us what had happened - we had a nice chat - no pressure etc. Felt bad but this mooring is nicer and the breeze is very nice. Will do some business with Sea Cat on our way South.

Before leaving Martinique I filed a Prearrival Notification using eSeaClear (Caribbean Pre-Arrival Notification system). On reporting to Customs in Roseau all I had to do was give the Agent my PAN number, he printer our forms, I signed them, paid our money any we were done. This is the second experience we have had with ESeaClear and both have been very positive - big improvement over the old paper based/carbon copy system.

We were able to see a great Green Flash at sundown - perhaps the best we have seen.

Planned to go to Dinner at the Yacht Inn Chinese Restaurant but think that it is out of business - went ashore and no sign of life. Tried calling the number listed on the front of the building and it is out of service.

Heading for Portsmouth in the morning.

Grande Anse d' Arlet

We moved from Ste Pierre this morning and are now anchored in a very nice place. A bit gusty but we found a good spot in sand at about 14 feet deep and have already been for a swim. Plan to take laundry in tomorrow to Kay Za'Za'. Friday morning we plan to clear out at the local bistro Le P'ti Bateau (French customs and immigration is self service with most terminals located in a pub or bistro)! Then, after clearing out, we will sail to the North end of the island to Ste Pierre and depart from there Saturday morning for Roseau, Dominica.

Doing teak in Martinique

I finished doing the Cetol on all of the caprail except the piece across the stern yesterday while Lesley cleaned and waxed some of the diamond plate on deck. We had mostly overcast skies and a little more humidity than normal so it was a good day for both of the projects that we had.

After making coffee we ran the water maker (with new motor and pump) for several hours and we are still very happy with its performance. We had noticed a high pitched noise coming from the new unit and added some small rubber squares at each corner under the mounting plate and pads under the mounting bolt/washers. This knocked the noise level way down. Plan to bring some heavier rubber pads back with us next season.

Have been in touch with another RO system maker and they have given me prices on parts that I will need to put another unit together using my old pump. Plan to use the old pump (after factory rebuild) and new parts to put another 8gph/20amp water maker together for a friend.

After our warm showers we had Nurn'berger wurst, Lesley's great French potato salad and home made coleslaw for dinner and Jell-O and whipped cream for desert.

I fell asleep again while watching an episode from Season 5 of Grey's Anatomy.

Martinique

We always like getting to the French islands as wine is so cheap. Good too! We've found good box wine in the US at Total Beverage and now have a favorite French box wine as well.